Why is it that when we see a fashion show be it Paris, Milan or New York, the male designers will always walk out at the end wearing one of the following three co-ordinations; A suit or, jeans, vest and jacket or, jeans t-shirt and blazer. Even the most creative of them i.e Dolce and Gabbana, at the end of their Spring Summer 2011 collection, walked out onto the stage and took their much deserved bow wearing white shirts, black vests and jeans. Go figure.
No. Do more than that. Pay attention. Those three coordinates are a staple in a man’s wardrobe – that classic white shirt, jeans and jacket. Nothing is safer, or easier to work in than this timeless trio. And don’t let anyone else tell you otherwise. Not even me!
So to our designers tonight. The uber-masculine yet creative; Dolce & Gabbana.
Everything about Dolce & Gabbana’s SS11 collection was perfect. From their original idea, to their ad campaigns, to the essence of delivery and to the final show. It all consisted of the most stunning of materials for their entire range. When D&G do a range they leave no stone unturned. You have loungewear, suiting, outer wear, casual, beachwear, underwear, footwear, accessories, bags, belts and jewellry. The fabrics alone should have their own place on the runway. The detail and expense of the textiles are jaw-dropping.
As one hundred male models walk down the D&G catwalk at the Paris Fashion week showing off the SS11 collection, you get an overwhelming feeling that you’re being transported back into an Italian mansion. Imagine chandeliers, grand pianos and Annie Lennox elegantly posing on the piano stool, fingers on keys, face projected onto a massive screen behind her and the lights dimmed. Melody pours from the acoustics as you slowly recognized the tune. ‘No more I love you’s”, and out walks the first of 100 male models down the runway showing off the collection that we’ve decided to call, Jesus the Gladiator.
Suiting, beautiful pin-striped with stunning silks draping a masculine silhouette. From head to toe you will see shoes that are almost hobo compared to what’s on up top. It’s wrong, it’s right, it’s unusual. And it’s – RIGHT! MSP love it.
The hobo looking shoes, have been constructed from the most premium of Italian leathers. The shoes as discussed previously are simply the polar opposite of what’s worn on top and they pull focus. Some are laced, some without, some studded. The soles are wafer thin with colours that are dark in navy blues and chocolates, almost wood like in their appearance. But when you look at them, the detail is extraordinary. Match these back with suits in whites, creams, mushroom with tanned belts, and fabrics that fall onto the masculine shape like a leaf falling in autumn. Slow, fluid and understated. It’s natural, it’s camouflage, it’s sensational.
The swimwear, trunk wear, lounge wear is in fantastic stretch cottons. Bold boarded in chocolates around creams and blacks, – these are old fashioned authentic trunks, with belts that lassoed around the waist via loop holes with gold finishings. Imagine the Amalfi Coast and Brighton, England in the 1920s. Brilliant styling matched back with t-shirts and sweaters in the same colour pallette.
Dolce & Gabbana’s casual suiting takes on the lighter shades of pale with transparent sleeving in the jackets. The fabric is raw silk with immaculate detail on the edges matched back with straight legged pants.
Bagwear is heavy in leather with intricate detail. Waffle like texture and/or plaited and woven leathers give the D&G bag that ‘don’t screw with me’ attitude that you’d be out of your mind to tell a mate that he’s a bit dandy with one of these from Dolce & Gabbana. These bags mean serious business.
Shorts and sweaters with transparent sleeves in wools and silks, leathers that are waxed and polished. Excellent details and very very manly. MSP can’t get enough of this collection and neither should you.
The absolution with Dolce & Gabbana is these men can take you on a journey and supply all your wardrobe styling needs in one showing. It’s rare to see every piece of a designers range fitting your personal style, yet D&G do it with such ease. And I guess that is why they are at the top of their game, and have been for a very long time.
Moving to silk pants with Jesus type sandals roped around ones’ ankles is a beachy night’s dream. The belts are gladiator-like and the pants are silk and straight with some tapering around the ankle. Now I’m not a big fan of the elastic ankle, especially on sweat pants but this looks brilliant. Shapely double breasted jackets with light coloured pants, vests over light coloured shirts, mid-thigh length shorts with detailed belting that is soft leathered and plaited, white jeans with tears through them. Cream jackets with white silk pants with chocolate belts and two tone shoes. I mean come on, seriously! Dolce & Gabbana are taking potentially naff and making it hip.
And all the way, Annie plays a heart wrenching melody in the background.