Alexander McQueen marked its return to London’s fashion calendar with a creepily compelling autumn/winter 2013 menswear collection. We guess with the latest craze on the 1920’s films to be debuted this year, inspiration has come from an era of chivalry, danger, masculinity and gangster style.
Take this collection, which featured a cast of hollow cheeked models stalking those mournful rooms in oversized, elongated suits that made them resemble a mob of sallow gangsters. For extra jitter, some wore cinematic serial killer semi-transparent face masks. Traditional Savile Row decorations including chalk-stripe, Bengal, polka dot and Prince of Wales were cut up and rearranged into a kaleidoscope of nerdy menswear references, under Pinkie-perfect peaked shoulders.
Monkstrapped bootlets, stained-glass jacquards, gold sleeper earrings, the odd kimono-ish shift and regimental-flashed trousers were thrown in too. Fun, sinister, and consistently impractical, it was conceptual fashion rooted in classic English menswear, and all jolly good fun to watch – although Burton’s parents did sometimes look a mite nonplussed.
As the British Fashion Council’s new chair Natalie Massenet observed: “this feels like old-school London Fashion Week, a bit like early Galliano.”
So when will Burton bring the womenswear home too? McQueen is London-perfect.
Words: Luke Leitch
Photos: Vladmir Potop, Style.com, Getty Images.