Expectations were running high for Strateas Carlucci this year as one of the first shows at the Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Australia SS14/15.
The brand is a collaboration between Peter Strateas and Mario- Luca Carlucci, who with their impressive works won the Tiffany and Co. National Designer Award 2014. It’s no small task to win such a prestigious award, yet the duo’s ‘no compromise’ on high quality fabrics and tailoring with an off beat twist, was something judges couldn’t ignore.
Strateas Carlucci’s debut collection has its eye on an international market. Seasonally and aesthetically the collection was not trend driven but reflected the duo’s interest in head-turning menswear that’s edgy and masculine.
This particular collection entitled Fracture, played with androgyny with the male and female outfits mirroring each other. The feel was organic, flowing and earthy with fractured and disjointed details such as double lapels on suit jackets and shirts with razor sharp collars that pointed up the neck but which sat flat against the chest.
There was clear play with shape and structure despite the use of soft fabrics. Carlucci himself cited architectural forms as a point of influence for the collection. Extra detail was added in the solid silver “bone” cuffs by Elsa Peretti for Tiffany and Co. All of this played was played out to us in an array of organic hues. Black being a staple surrounded by soft white, chocolate brown, fawn, navy and greys.
My favourite looks of the collection were heirloom pants matched with snakeskin biker jackets which could become the definitive of a “new cool”.
In short this is a beautiful collection every piece of which could easily be the next “must have” for fashion loving men. It is sophisticated and stylish focusing one exquisitely executed tailoring with a twist or personality for good measure. An amazing debut and certainly a label to watch in the future.